Molino Real “Mountain Blanco” Muscat

In 1995, Telmo Rodríguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkiza established Molino Real in Málaga with a view to reviving the region’s ‘Mountain Wine’. This naturally sweet style once stood shoulder to shoulder with the great sweet wines of Tokaji, Sauternes and Germany. It was historically made from Moscatel grapes grown in the canyons around Málaga and sun-dried before fermentation. The resulting ‘Mountain Wines’ were decadent and rich, producing fine, age-worthy expressions. As trends changed, these wines fell out of fashion, and the wine-growing traditions of Málaga faded into near obscurity. That is, until the 90s, when Telmo and Pablo began seeking out the lost regions of Spain. Remembering how Hugh Johnson once said that old ‘Mountain Wine’ was the best wine he’d ever had, they were inspired.

For over 20 years, Molino Real has produced traditional sweet wines from the ravines of Cómpeta in Axarquía. An hour’s drive from the city of Málaga, Telmo and Pablo have nine hectares of Moscatel vines planted on dark schist and green slate soils, between 350 and 1,000 metres above sea level. The estate fruit is further supplemented by local, like-minded growers.

The eponymous ‘Molino Real’ is made from Moscatel dried using the ‘asoleo’ method, pressed in traditional oil presses with natural esparto mats. The grapes are so concentrated that two and a half kilos of fruit are required to produce just one litre of juice. This is then fermented with indigenous yeast in 225-litre wooden barrels, followed by 20 months of ageing.

Production

Located in the `Zona Axarquía` in the east of Málaga, the vineyards are grown at some of the highest elevations in this area, between 550 to 1,000 metres above sea level, in the villages of Cómpeta and Archez. This region is the driest of the five subzones of Málaga, and is also well-known for raisin production from the DO Pasas de Málaga. The shallow, stony and fine textured soil, developed from Paleozoic schists, creates an excellent environment for traditional bush vines to be grown.

The grapes were hand harvested and then pressed using a traditional, artisanal method. The grapes were placed between two mats made from `esparto` (a straw-like material) and then crushed using an olive-oil press. The wine was then aged in bottle for between 9-12 months before being released.

Tasting Notes

On the nose, this wine shows purity with aromas of spice and herbs. On the palate, it’s crunchy and peppery, spicy and herbal, with a long, dry finish. It has good concentration and a lot of finesse and intensity.