2023 Celler del Roure, `Les Prunes` – Liberty

Celler del Roure founder Pablo Calatayud is part of a new generation of Spanish winegrowers championing traditional methods and forgotten regions. He is a proud member of the ‘Futuro Viñador’, a pioneering group of producers including Telmo Rodríguez, Pepe Raventós and José Maria Vicente. Together they are transforming the Spanish wine scene, using Spain’s treasure trove of old vines and indigenous varieties to produce modern expressions of variety and site.

Pablo started Celler del Roure in 2000 with a few tanks and barrels in a corner of his father’s furniture workshop. He became increasingly fascinated with local Valencian varieties, especially Mandó. “If one farmer had 300 kilos of Mando, I paid him with 600 of something else in order to get the finest fruit.” Pablo’s early wines were made in tiny quantities, but quickly attracted the attention of local sommeliers. “Valencia has wonderful culinary traditions and restaurants, but for a long time there was no Valencian wine on restaurant wine lists. I had to change this”, explains Pablo.

In 2006 Pablo bought an estate in Moixent. Tucked behind the Serra Grossa, 70 miles southwest of Valencia, the property dates back to the seventeenth century. On discovering its original cellar with stone lagars and buried clay amphorae (‘tinajas’ in Spanish) in great condition, Pablo started experimenting. He became convinced that indigenous varieties like Mandó, Arcos and Verdil were better suited to traditional practices. Today the wines are made with minimal intervention, using native yeasts and old amphorae. Talented young winemaker Paco Senis, who also owns a wine bar and restaurant in Valencia, is in charge of production. The estate comprises 65 hectares of certified organic vineyards planted at 600 metres above sea level. The elevation as well as cooling easterly winds help moderate this warm, Mediterranean region, resulting in grapes with remarkable freshness.

‘Cullerot’ is a white blend of Macabeo, Verdil, Malvasia and Pedro Ximénez. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in amphorae for six months, it is balanced and fresh with lovely texture. As Luis Gutiérrez (Wine Advocate) attests, “the quality transcends the price.” ‘Les Prunes’ is a rosé made from 100% Mandó. Direct pressed into tank for spontaneous fermentation, and then racked into amphorae to complete fermentation and age for six months, this charming rosé is bone-dry with crisp acidity and fresh berry flavours. ‘Vermell’, a blend of Mandó, Arcos and Garnacha Tintorera, has a pretty nose, with crunchy red berry fruit and herbal flavours. ‘Safra’ and ‘Parotet’ are different blends of Mandó and Arcos, with 30% whole bunch in the fermentation. ‘Safra’, the Mandó dominant blend, has wonderful vibrancy and elegant tannins. ‘Parotet’, the Arcos dominant blend which benefits from additional time in amphorae, has a bit more weight and intensity.

All the Celler del Roure wines display a very distinctive freshness. They are authentic expressions of traditional Valencian varieties that belie tired stereotypes of over-oaked and over-extracted Spanish wine.