Matias is a young – very young! – winemaker who leads the third generation of a family wine business that was founded in 1950 by Lebanese immigrants. They bought vineyards originally planted by Italians around 70 years previously, at relatively low altitude (600 metres above sea level) some 90 miles east of Mendoza City. This area was home to the original Glory Days of the Argentine wine industry, when domestic consumption quadrupled the levels we see today and the Morcos family, like their neighbours, were entirely focused on producing ‘bulk’ wine. This they did for more than 60 years until young Matias decided to change the direction of travel.
Despite the subsequent dominance of Luján and, more recently, the Uco Valley in terms of high quality wines, East Mendoza still accounts for a perhaps surprising 42% of the province’s total plantings – a huge vineyard! Matias Morcos has made it his personal mission to shift the focus of the family business away from bulk wine and to hone in on the rich resources he has within his grasp: old pergola-trained vines with an incredible story to tell. He is restoring a 100 year-old winery, refurbishing and dividing old concrete tanks for small-batch production of wines with irresistible character and unique expression. And his winery doors are open to any of his neighbours who feel like joining the advance party.
Production
The label depicts an ancient, rudimentary method of viticulture where old immigrant vines have essentially grown feral like ‘little trees’. The task of the grape picker becomes precarious and involves erecting wooden ladders for harvesting amidst wayward branches. This can still be seen in some far-flung pockets of eastern Mendoza as well as in Salta in the far north. The majority of vines for this wine, however, are old pergola-trained characters and in this case, Criolla Chica, the Daddy of the Criolla family, aka Listan Prieto from the Canary Islands, which was brought to the Americas some 600 years ago.
Grapes are harvested by hand in to 20kg boxes and aged 6 months in concrete tanks.
Tasting Notes
This particular example of Criolla Chica has a beautiful red berry ripeness with aromas of strawberries and cherries. It is light and soft in the mouth with juicy acidity and a delicious finish. Best served lightly chilled, it’s a real eye-opener and a great springboard into the lovely Criolla swimming pool.
Ideal to accompany any type of food, but also moments away from the table.
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